The filthiest place in the world

In the depths of Borneo’s Gomantong Caves, an entire ecosystem had developed. I wasn’t even close to the entrance when I was struck by an infernal stench. I had soaked my scarf in scented oils and wrapped it around my face to make the experience more tolerable, but even so, the surrounding miasma was so heavy that it simply overwhelmed…

Orang Asli: a visit to the jungle people

At the entrance to the Taman Negara Reserve, I met my local guide—a short, thin, and very polite young man named Danny. He was a great admirer of the traditions and way of life of the indigenous people. He sometimes went hunting with them in the jungle, with nothing but a spear and a bow, sleeping in the trees at…