(read Part 1 here) When we were visiting a temple, Agung drew my attention to one of the pavilions near the entrance. “This is where the cockfights take place,” he explained. “Cockfighting, here?” I asked, surprised. “What for?” The basic reason was not entertainment, my guide hurried to clarify. On the contrary. The cockfights had a sacred purpose, and they…

Bali is known to many as a beach destination, but this is not how I would remember it. I wasn’t attracted by the party vibe that the resorts on the west coast were famous for, so I had chosen to go to Sanur, a relatively quiet town on the opposite side of the island. In reality, because the high season…